The man who takes care with proportion in his suits and dress shirts always looks good. Unfortunately, this point is woefully under appreciated today; it's rare to find a man whose style is understated elegance, the kind of man who people feel is always well dressed without knowing why. Most men's suits and dress shirts sold in stores are available in only a few standard sizes and are constructed according to the fashion of their day. It's true that with proper tailoring most men can get a reasonable fit out of a retail suit or other garment, but with a suit especially there are so many opportunities for customization that one misses out on a lot when buying off the rack. In retail, crucial details like gorge height, closure, button stance, and lapel width are dictated by the whims of fashion rather than the needs of a wearer's unique body

Luke 1977

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